Venice in the Winter

I’ve said it before, and I’ll keep saying it: Venice is at its best in winter. I know summer schedules are hard to avoid, but if you’ve had a terrible time in Venice, it’s probably because you went in July! Trust me—Venice in January or February feels like a completely different city than in June or July. Here are my top three reasons to visit Venice in the off-season:

1. Fewer tourists
2. Fewer tourists
3. Fewer tourists

You might think that promoting Venice in the off-season would eventually make it crowded year-round. But I believe you have to really love Venice to appreciate its charm in the colder months. Venice in winter is not a sunny Italian fantasy, but if moody, fog-draped canals are your thing, then this is the time to go. And did I mention—no torrid summer heat? That said, we did have a day of bright winter sun during our stay, which was a lovely bonus.

Now, onto the real reason you’re reading this: here’s what we did on our most recent winter trip to Venice last month, in case you’re planning your own escape.

Getting There:

Train: The direct train from Rome to Venice takes about four hours. I like the 10:35 departure—it gives me a leisurely morning but still gets us to Venice by 2:30. I book through the Trenitalia site, and usually travel in Executive Class. It’s pricey, but very comfortable, and lunch is included, so we arrive ready to explore.

Water Taxi: While Venice’s vaporettos (water buses) are convenient, I prefer to take a water taxi when I’m lugging a suitcase. This time, we paid €75 for a ride to our hotel. Not bad, considering our hotel wasn’t on the water, so they sent a porter to meet us at the dock. I usually have the hotel arrange the taxi, but you can also book through the official site.

Traghetto: I wasn’t sure whether to include this in the ‘travel’ or ‘what to do’ section. Part transport, part fun, taking a traghetto—a gondola that ferries you across the Grand Canal—is a must. Since there are only three bridges crossing the canal, this is a handy way to save some walking, and it’s a fun Venetian experience.

Where we slept:

Hotel Violino D’Oro: We stayed at the newly opened Hotel Violino D’Oro, a stunning boutique hotel that was created by combining three smaller hotels after a years-long restoration. The result is a luxurious 5-star retreat with impeccable attention to detail. The minimalist design is enhanced by beautiful materials and craftsmanship by Venetian artisans. Its central location makes it easy to get around, and the staff is incredibly warm and welcoming. We were upgraded to a suite, and it was perfect. Even if you’re not staying here, I highly recommend stopping by for a cocktail at their stylish ground-floor bar!

Where we ate:

Rosa Salva: One of my favorite bars in Venice. While they have a few locations, I love the original in Campo SS. Giovanni e Paolo, where you can sit in a quiet piazza far from the crowds. We enjoyed tea and pastries while soaking in the peaceful atmosphere.

Nevodi: This seafood gem is a favorite of my friend Gillian, located on Via Garibaldi. It’s a simple, rustic spot with fantastic food. Make sure to reserve a table, as it’s always packed.

Busa alla Torre: More commonly called ‘da Lele’ after the owner, this is everyone’s favorite place in Murano. If it’s nice day out lunch in the piazza is a must. I guess there is a menu? But in reality, Lele decides what you will be eating. Just sit back and enjoy. We had an absolute feast.

Gritti Palace: After a long day in Murano, we were too full for dinner and opted for cocktails instead at the Bar Longhi inside the Gritti Palace. While it’s famous for its summer terrace, the cozy interior with velvet banquettes and low seating is heaven in the winter. I loved my Spicy Martini, and by 9:00, we were just hungry enough to order a Caesar salad. Not exactly Italian, but it hit the spot! Full disclosure: our evening cost €170.

Cantina Do Spade: I love stopping for cicchetti—Venetian tapas—especially for lunch when I need a break from walking. My go-to spot is Do Spade, where I arrive early to snag a table in the front. The cicchetti are delicious, and paired with an ombra (a small glass of wine), it makes for a perfect Venetian lunch.

Antiche Carampane: My favorite restaurant in Venice. It’s hard to find and harder to get a table, but it’s worth it for the amazing seafood. We had a marvelous dinner here.

Al Portego: A great place to go to grab some cicchetti and stand outside under the portico with a glass of wine, but I also love it for lunch. Make sure to call ahead to reserve one of the handful of tables. We went for hearty Venetian classics: schie (tiny shrimp) and polenta, squid ink with polenta, and my favorite—fegato alla Veneziana (Venetian-style liver).

What we did:

Glass factory in Murano: We met Mickey and Ennio kindly invited us to spend the day with them in Murano for a behind-the-scenes look at one of the oldest glass factories there, Ars Cenedese, which Ennio runs. I’d definitely recommend arranging a visit to this or another glass maker. It’s fascinating.

Olivetti Store: If you are a fan of mid-century modern design, the Carlo Scarpa-designed Olivetti store in Piazza San Marco is a must-see. After having been closed for years, it is now a museum, and you can visit the perfectly restored interiors.

Rubelli: We visited the archives and showroom of Rubelli, one of Venice’s oldest fabric makers. The textiles are exquisite, and I couldn’t resist buying a gorgeous silk/wool scarf.

Tessitura Bevilacqua: Another historic fabric maker, Bevilacqua still weaves their fabrics on 17th-century looms. It’s a one-of-a-kind experience for textile lovers. Although the fabrics cost anywhere from €1000 to €6000 per meter (!), we came home with two €80 samples that will make beautiful throw pillows.

Fondazione Querini Stampalia: One of my favorite small museums in Venice, with a mix of modern architecture (by Carlo Scarpa and Mario Botta) and 18th-century Venetian art. A perfect blend of old and new.