The Culture of Food in Sardinia

Afternoon

Our adventure begins in Sardinia’s countryside, where we’ll be staying at Hotel Su Gologone, a charming retreat nestled in the hills just outside Oliena. This peaceful oasis is the perfect spot to unwind after your journey. You’ll have time to settle into your room and take in the surroundings before we gather later that evening to officially kick off the week.

In your room you’ll find a welcome package, including some local snacks and a bottle of wine, a tote bag for any treasures you pick up throughout the week, and our guide to Cagliari, filled with our favorite dining spots to help you plan your free time when we head to the city later in the week.

Evening

In the evening, we’ll meet for drinks on the hotel’s panoramic terrace, where you can take in views of Sardinia’s rugged landscape. It’s here that you’ll be introduced to Sophie and Angelo, our licensed guide for the week. They’ll share a bit about themselves and give you an overview of the experiences that await you in the days ahead.

After drinks, we’ll head to our first dinner together. Depending on the weather, we may dine in the romantic courtyard under the stars or gather near the cozy open hearth in the dining room. Dinner will be a delicious introduction to Sardinian culinary traditions, which are uniquely distinct from the rest of Italy. We’ll also have our first taste of Sardinian wine.

Morning

Our first stop today is in the nearby town of Dorgali, where we will be discovering the art of Filigrana: Sardinia’s delicate and intricate form of silver and gold filigree jewelry. We’ll visit a local artisan in his workshop to witness firsthand the meticulous process of creating these intricate pieces, using techniques passed down through generations. From twisting fine threads of precious metals to forming symbolic shapes like knots, flowers, and suns, we’ll learn about the meaning and mastery behind this centuries-old art.

We will then hop into our vans and up into the mountains, driving through a landscape dotted with windswept trees and herds of goats. Our destination is a remote shepherd’s hut known as a ‘pinnetthu’, where we’ll gain insight into a way of life that remains central to Sardinia’s culture and economy. You’ll learn about the rich tradition of herding, and see how they make ricotta with no sort of modern technology involved in the process.

We’ll have a rustic, authentic lunch sitting under the pergola while hearing stories about the shepherd’s daily life and the importance of shepherding in Sardinian heritage and culinary traditions.

Afternoon

We’ll return to the hotel around 4 PM, and you’ll have the rest of the afternoon to relax at your own pace. Take a swim, unwind with a massage, or simply enjoy a drink while soaking in the peaceful surroundings.

Evening 

We’ll gather in the early evening for a special culinary demonstration. You’ll witness the preparation of pane carasau, the crisp, cracker-like flatbread that is a beloved staple throughout Sardinia. Enjoy this freshly baked treat along with a glass of wine as we’re serenaded by a private concert of traditional Sardinian folk songs, performed by singers from a nearby town. We then gather in the dining room, for dinner. 

Morning

We’ll enjoy a relaxed morning at the hotel: the best time to soak in the atmosphere, take a final stroll through the grounds or the nearby countryside, or begin packing up at your own pace ahead of tomorrow’s departure.

In the late morning, we’ll gather for a unique culinary experience: a live demonstration of Filindeu. This pasta, which translates as  “the threads of God”, is considered to be the rarest pasta in the world. This delicate, hand-pulled pasta is made by only a handful of people in Sardinia, using an ancient technique passed down through generations.

Following the lesson, it’s time to taste it. We will gather round the table to feast, featuring a steaming bowl of Filindeu in traditional mutton broth, alongside a spread of local specialties.

Afternoon

This afternoon, we venture into the region of Barbagia, a cultural stronghold in the heart of Sardinia, long known for its fierce independence and rich traditions.

Our first stop is the town of Orgosolo, famous for its murals: political street art painted across homes and walls that tell stories of resistance and identity. As we stroll through the narrow streets, we’ll dive into the history of Barbagia and its legacy of banditry and rebellion, gaining a deeper appreciation for this corner of Sardinia.

We’ll stop for a coffee break and have time to explore local artisan workshops, where you’ll find handcrafted knives, silk textiles, cork goods, and traditional Sardinian hats.

Next, we travel to the nearby village of Mamoiada, home to the island’s most mysterious tradition: the Mamuthones and Issohadores. Our first stop will be the Museum of Mediterranean Masks, where you’ll learn about the ancient rituals and symbolism behind Sardinia’s haunting carnival figures. Then we’ll visit a local artisan who continues to hand-carve these masks using traditional methods passed down through generations.

Evening

To close the day, we’ll head to a tiny, family-run cantina nestled in the hills to taste Sardinia’s famed Cannonau wine, accompanied by light local snacks.

We return to the hotel around 8:00 pm, hearts and bellies full.

Morning

Today we will check out of the hotel and make our way to southern Sardinia, but not without a few stops along the way.

Our first destination is the Pozzo di Santa Cristina, one of the island’s most remarkable archaeological sites. This Bronze Age sacred well, built over 3,000 years ago, is aligned with lunar cycles and showcases the architectural and spiritual sophistication of Sardinia’s ancient Nuragic civilization. We’ll take a guided tour to explore its mysteries and enduring construction.

From there, we continue on to the coastal town of Cabras, a place famous for producing bottarga: Sardinia’s prized “gold of the sea,” made from salted and cured mullet roe. We’ll enjoy a leisurely lunch featuring bottarga in traditional preparations, accompanied by other specialties from the Sinis Peninsula and local wine.

Afternoon

In the afternoon, we’ll drive south to our base for the rest of the week: Cagliari. We’ll be staying at Casa Clat, a charming hotel in the heart of the city. After checking in, you’ll have some time to rest and settle in before we gather in the early evening for a walk into the Castello neighborhood. We will enjoy an aperi-cena (drinks and snacks) while looking out over the city towards the sunset.

Morning

Today, we are exploring Cagliari, Sardinia’s capital and largest city.

We’ll meet a local guide and take a walk through Cagliari’s historic center, with one or two tastings along the way. As the island’s capital, Cagliari offers flavors from all over Sardinia, and we’ll get a small taste of its culinary diversity while passing some of the city’s iconic landmarks, including the Bastione di Saint Remy and the majestic cathedral.

After the walk, we’ll sit down together for a lunch featuring typical Cagliari dishes.

Afternoon

The afternoon and evening are yours to enjoy at your own pace. Whether you choose to explore more of the city’s hidden corners, visit museums, or simply relax with a coffee at a local café, we’ve got you covered. We’ll provide a list of our favorite restaurants and recommendations for sites and neighborhoods worth visiting. And, of course, we’re happy to offer tips and advice.

Morning

After breakfast, we’ll set off for our final adventure. Cagliari is full of ancient, hidden underground sites that over the centuries have been everything from Punic tombs, Catholic churches, brothels, escape tunnels, and WWII air raid shelters. Normally closed to the public, we’ll enjoy exclusive access with our friend Marcello, a speleologist and the city’s caretaker of these hidden treasures.

After our underground adventure, we take a short drive, just outside of town, to a countryside agriturismo. Here we’ll take part in a hands-on lesson to learn how to make fregola. Fregola is a traditional Sardinian pasta made of hand-rolled semolina pearls, toasted for a nutty flavor. It’s often served with clams or in rich broths, and many describe it as a heartier, more rustic cousin of couscous. After our lesson, we will enjoy a long relaxed lunch of traditional dishes featuring fregola of course, as well as other local dishes.

Afternoon

We’ll return to the city by around 4:30 pm. The rest of the afternoon is free to pack or enjoy a final stroll through Cagliari.

Evening

Tonight we’ll gather one last time for a farewell aperitivo of drinks and shared small plates, to toast to our unforgettable week together.

Our tour is officially over, and we will be checking out of the hotel in Cagliari.