One of my all-time favorite recipes comes from one of my oldest friends, Evan Kleiman. Long before I even met Evan, over 20 years ago, I was already making her tomato, pancetta and mascarpone pasta from her book Pasta Fresca, which sat on my shelf right next to Marcella Hazan. The fact that it is now faded and falling apart shows the love. Her easy to follow, straightforward and authentic recipes have become standards.
The dish my family and I have loved the most is her Salsa Cremosa di Mascarpone e Pancetta Affumicata, or as we call it, “that Evan pasta with the mascarpone.” When my kids were little and we spent summers in Umbria, this was the go-to meal since everyone, adults and children alike, devoured it. I’ve adapted it slightly over the years, usually swapping smoked pancetta for regular pancetta or guanciale, and using short pasta instead of fresh fettuccine. Since so many people have asked for the recipe, I’m sharing Evan’s original version here.
Salsa Cremosa di Mascarpone e Pancetta Affumicata (Creamy Sauce with Bacon)
Recipe originally from Pasta Fresca by Evan Kleiman & Viana La Place
Serves: 4–6
Ingredients:
- 1 small onion, finely diced
- 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
- ¼ pound (about 150 g) meaty smoked pancetta or thick-sliced bacon, cut into thin strips
- 8 canned imported tomatoes, about 1½ cups, seeded and pureed
- Salt, to taste
- 1 pound fresh fettuccine (or homemade pasta) cut into fettuccine
- 7 ounces (about 200 g) mascarpone
- 12 fresh basil leaves, cut into julienne
Instructions:
- In a large sauté pan, cook the onion in the olive oil over low heat until tender, about 10–12 minutes.
- Add the pancetta or bacon, raise the heat slightly, and cook until it colors but does not become crisp.
- Stir in the pureed tomatoes and a little salt. Let simmer until the moisture evaporates and the sauce thickens.
- Meanwhile, cook the fettuccine in abundant salted boiling water until al dente. Drain, reserving a little moisture on the strands of pasta.
- Add the pasta to the sauce in the pan and toss over very low heat.
- Add the mascarpone and basil, and toss again until the pasta is coated in the creamy sauce.
Notes & tweaks:
- Over the years I’ve often used regular pancetta or guanciale instead of the smoked version.
- I usually make this with short pasta, wagon wheels or bowties were always a hit with the kids.
- The mascarpone gives the sauce its rich, velvety texture. Don’t skip it!
If you’d like to cook alongside Evan in person, you can join her on our upcoming Sicily tour. Details here: The Culture of Food in Sicily with Evan Kleiman
