Where to Eat, Drink and Stay in Umbria

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Umbria has long been a place we hold dear. It’s where we escape Rome on weekends, and where Easter and much of the summer tend to unfold. 

While we love it in every season, spring in Umbria feels especially magical. The hills turn an almost impossibly bright green, the days grow warmer, and long lunches outdoors slowly become the norm again.

We’ve already shared guides to Perugia and Todi, but so much of our time here is spent exploring beyond them. Whether it’s wandering the flower-filled streets of Spello, stopping for a glass of Sagrantino in Montefalco, or lingering over lunch in small towns like Bevagna and Trevi, some of our favorite meals have happened in these quieter corners of the region.

Over time we’ve fallen into a rhythm here, returning to the same places whenever we can, and many of these are also stops on our week-long tours through Umbria. Here are some of our favorites.

Our Guide to Todi (Umbria)

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For over thirty years, my family and I have split our time between our two beloved homes: our apartment in Rome and our villa in the hills outside Todi, in Umbria.

While life in the city tends to be busy, with errands to run, restaurants to try, and almost always somewhere to be, in the countryside things slow down quite a bit and we end up spending most of our time at home. In the winter there’s a fire going, and in the summer the pool makes it very tempting not to leave. When it comes to eating, our large marble table under a shady, vine-covered pergola means having people over for lunch or dinner is a no-brainer. And since most of the ingredients come straight from our garden, the menu planning usually takes care of itself.

Still, every now and then it’s nice to head into town. Perched high above the valley of the Tiber River, Todi is one of those classic Umbrian hill towns that seems to float above the countryside. With its medieval streets and beautiful central piazza, it feels both elegant and wonderfully laid-back. And luckily, there are plenty of good places to eat and drink, from traditional trattorie to wine bars and relaxed little spots for coffee or aperitivo.

And while Todi isn’t as big or as well-known as Perugia, which we’ve already written about in a dedicated guide, we think this town deserves one of its own, since we spend so much time here and it holds a special place in our lives.

The Culture of Food in Umbria with Sophie Minchilli

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Since I was born, I’ve been lucky enough to call two very different but equally magical places home: our apartment in Rome and our beloved villa in Umbria. Summers, long weekends, and countless lazy afternoons have been spent here in Umbria: surrounded by rolling hills, olive groves, and the quiet rhythm of a life lived close to the land.

I’m inviting you to join me for a week steeped in the flavors, textures, and beauty of Umbria. For six delicious days, we’ll explore the region the way I love best: through its kitchens, farms, and vineyards. Most importantly, I will introduce you to the people keeping these traditions alive. We’ll taste, sip, cook, learn, wander, and have fun along the way.

Our base will be Perugia, the ancient hill town that serves as Umbria’s capital. We’ll stay at the elegant Brufani Hotel, recently restored and perfectly perched above the valley with panoramic views. From this enviable spot in the heart of the city, you can step outside to find museums, boutiques, and trattorie in your free time.

I can’t wait to welcome you into our Umbria, a place of beauty, generosity, and unforgettable meals shared around the table.

– Sophie Minchilli

Where to Eat and Drink in Perugia

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The capital of Umbria and the largest city in the region, Perugia is totally underrated. If you ask us, it’s a great place for a city break and the perfect jumping off point to explore some of the more rural parts of the enchanting region known as Italy’s Green Heart.

Perched on a hill, Perugia has a frozen-in-time quality, as the historic center has essentially remained the same since the Middle Ages. Wandering through the city center, you can admire the Medieval architecture, then duck into the Collegio del Cambio to see beautiful frescoes by Perugino and visit the Galleria Nazionale dell’Umbria, which contains Medieval and Renaissance art by Beato Angelico, Pinturicchio, and Perugino. It’s no wonder we chose it as our base for our week long Umbria tour.

The best reason to visit Perugia, though, is for the food. Perugia has a large student population, but it doesn’t get a ton of tourists, so you won’t find the kind of tourist trap restaurants common in Rome, Florence, and Venice. Instead, you’ll find casual spots that cater to the student population with cheap eats, as well as more formal restaurants that serve the local cuisine, which is heavy on meat, vegetables, and legumes like lentils and chickpeas.

Perugia is also famous for chocolate. You’re probably most familiar with the Perugina brand that makes baci (now owned by Nestlé), but there are also some great artisan chocolatiers worth visiting.

These are the places where the Via Rosa team loves to eat and drink in Perugia.

The Culture of Food in Umbria with Elizabeth Minchilli

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For over thirty years, I’ve been lucky enough to call two very different but equally magical places home: our apartment in Rome and our beloved villa in Umbria. Summers, long weekends, and countless lazy afternoons have been spent here in Umbria: surrounded by rolling hills, olive groves, and the quiet rhythm of a life lived close to the land. Over the years, we’ve fallen hopelessly in love with this unspoiled corner of Italy, and we’d love to share it with you.

I’m inviting you to join me for a week steeped in the flavors, textures, and beauty of Umbria. For six delicious days, we’ll explore the region the way we love best: through its kitchens, farms, and vineyards. Most importantly, we will introduce you to the people keeping these traditions alive. We’ll taste, sip, cook, learn, wander, and have fun along the way.

Our base will be Perugia, the ancient hill town that serves as Umbria’s capital. We’ll stay at the elegant Brufani Hotel, recently restored and perfectly perched above the valley with panoramic views. From this enviable spot in the heart of the city, you can step outside to find museums, boutiques, and trattorie in your free time.

I can’t wait to welcome you into our Umbria, a place of beauty, generosity, and unforgettable meals shared around the table.

– Elizabeth

The Culture of Food in Umbria

by

For over thirty years, we’ve been lucky enough to call two very different but equally magical places home: our apartment in Rome and our beloved villa in Umbria. Summers, long weekends, and countless lazy afternoons have been spent here in Umbria: surrounded by rolling hills, olive groves, and the quiet rhythm of a life lived close to the land. Over the years, we’ve fallen hopelessly in love with this unspoiled corner of Italy, and we’d love to share it with you.

We’re inviting you to join us for a week steeped in the flavors, textures, and beauty of Umbria. For six delicious days, we’ll explore the region the way we love best: through its kitchens, markets, and vineyards. Most importantly, we will introduce you to the people keeping these traditions alive. We’ll taste, sip, cook, learn, wander, and have fun along the way.

Our base will be Perugia, the ancient hill town that serves as Umbria’s capital. We’ll stay at the elegant Brufani Hotel, recently restored and perfectly perched above the valley with panoramic views. From this enviable spot in the heart of the city, you can step outside to find museums, boutiques, and trattorie in your free time.

We can’t wait to welcome you into our Umbria, a place of beauty, generosity, and unforgettable meals shared around the table.

– Elizabeth and Sophie

The Culture of Food in Umbria

by

For the last 25 years, I’ve been lucky enough to divide my time between our apartment in Rome and our home in Umbria. During summers and most weekends spent at our Umbrian villa, I’ve come to fall in love with this unspoiled corner of Italy. Through my books and articles, I’ve been able to share my passion in words and photographs. Now, with my daughter Sophie Minchilli, I would like to share the experience in person, and invite you to join me in Umbria for a week.

During this six-day tour, we’ll have the time to truly explore the region, from a completely food-centric point of view of course. From breakfast through dinner, we’ll travel all over Umbria: tasting, drinking, eating, cooking, learning, and having fun.

We’ll be based in the small hill town of Todi, one of Italy’s most beautiful villages. You will be staying in a charming, family-owned hotel right in the center of town, where you will have your own room. Each day we will be heading out to explore, while also spending time at my own villa nearby. – Elizabeth

The Culture of Food in Umbria

by

For the last 25 years, I’ve been lucky enough to divide my time between our apartment in Rome and our home in Umbria. During summers and most weekends spent at our Umbrian villa, I’ve come to fall in love with this unspoiled corner of Italy. Through my books and articles, I’ve been able to share my passion in words and photographs. Now I would like to share the experience in person, and invite you to join me in Umbria for a week.

During this six-day tour, we’ll have the time to truly explore the region, from a completely food-centric point of view of course. From breakfast through dinner, we’ll travel all over Umbria: tasting, drinking, eating, cooking, learning, and having fun.

We’ll be based in the small hill town of Todi, one of Italy’s most beautiful villages. You will be staying in a charming, family-owned hotel right in the center of town, where you will have your own room. Each day we will be heading out to explore, while also spending time at my own villa nearby.

The Culture of Food in Umbria

by

For the last 25 years, I’ve been lucky enough to divide my time between our apartment in Rome and our home in Umbria. During summers and most weekends spent at our Umbrian villa, I’ve come to fall in love with this unspoiled corner of Italy. Through my books and articles, I’ve been able to share my passion in words and photographs. Now I would like to share the experience in person, and invite you to join me in Umbria for a week.

During this six-day tour, we’ll have the time to truly explore the region, from a completely food-centric point of view of course. From breakfast through dinner, we’ll travel all over Umbria: tasting, drinking, eating, cooking, learning, and having fun.

We’ll be based in the small hill town of Todi, one of Italy’s most beautiful villages. You will be staying in a charming, family-owned hotel right in the center of town, where you will have your own room. Each day we will be heading out to explore, while also spending time at my own villa nearby.