Where to Eat, Drink and Stay in Umbria

Right on one of the prettiest piazzas in one of Umbria’s most charming hill towns, this is a place we return to often. The wine list is excellent, though we’re just as happy with a simple Montefalco Rosso. We tend to go all in on truffles here, especially the pasta, and never skip the tiramisu which made to order and always worth it.

Nestled in the heart of town, this is where we go when we’re craving a proper Umbrian meat feast. In the cooler months, the smell of the wood fire hits you before you even walk in, and the grill is always going. We usually go for the Chianina steak, cooked to perfection and often finished with truffles when in season. Hard to beat.

Set in the countryside just outside town, this family-run agriturismo is all about farm-to-table cooking. Much of what ends up on your plate comes straight from their land, including the famous sweet onions of Cannara. We always order one of the homemade pastas and the onion parmigiana, a rich, comforting dish that’s worth the trip on its own.

In the picturesque town of Spello, known for its stunning flower festival each spring, this rustic cantina is set inside a vaulted cellar that feels steeped in history. The setting alone is memorable, with stone arches and beautifully detailed ceramics that give it real character. The menu is rooted in Umbrian tradition, with truffle omelettes, rich pasta and slow-cooked wild boar among the standouts. 

A family-run spot in the heart of town, this is as classic as it gets. The cooking is unfussy, with well-executed local dishes and a warm, welcoming feel. We tend to go for the pappardelle with wild boar ragù or the ravioli, and always leave full, happy, and already thinking about the next visit.

On a historic estate just outside Trevi, this is a destination in itself. A true paradise for truffle lovers, the menu is built around seasonal ingredients, with truffles taking center stage. The setting is magical, with stone walls and sweeping views over the Umbrian countryside. And if you have the time, their truffle hunts are well worth building into your trip.

Tucked just inside Bevagna’s town gates, this is the kind of unpretentious place we’re always happy to find. As someone once told us, it’s an “honest” restaurant, where the focus is on the quality of the ingredients above all else. The menu changes daily, but you might find fresh pastas with truffles or gnocchi with Sagrantino wine. Simple, seasonal, and quietly memorable.

A small, cosy eatery tucked down one of Orvieto’s quieter side streets, just a short walk from the Duomo. It’s the kind of place you stumble into and immediately wish you had discovered sooner, with warm service and delicious food. The “bird nest” lasagna and wild boar are both hard to forget.

This well-established trattoria in Orvieto is known for its traditional cooking and generous hand with truffles. The menu often includes game, such as its signature wild dove, alongside other regional specialities, depending on the season and what’s available from local hunters. We always come back for the pasta all’ascaro, thick umbricelli in a rich, truffle-laced sauce of egg yolk, pancetta and parmesan. Indulgent and completely unforgettable.

Not far from Lake Trasimeno, this modern bistrot draws heavily on local produce, much of it coming from the estate itself, including its own olive oil and freshly milled organic flours used for bread. It’s a relaxed stop that feels a little more contemporary than most in the area, but still firmly rooted in the land around it, and well worth seeking out.

A lively, slightly chaotic roadside institution now run by the third generation, with spectacular views over Lake Trasimeno. You take a number on arrival, wait to be called, then order before finding a table in the large outdoor area. Known for its torta al testo sandwiches, grilled meats and fried dishes, it’s simple, generous and very good value. Go early or after peak hours to avoid the crowds.

Hidden up in the hills, this is a place you only really find if you’re told about it. The setting is beautiful and quiet, especially for a long lunch out in the garden. Go for the wild game, mushrooms and truffles, washed down with one of the excellent local wines. We love it for that rare feeling of being special without ever trying too hard.

Just outside Spoleto, this family-run osteria has been open since 1966 in an old farmhouse. In winter there’s a large open fireplace, while in summer the garden is filled with flowers grown by the family. The cooking is traditional and generous, with Umbrian meats, seasonal sides and simple pastas. Unpretentious and full of character, you’ll want to linger a little longer than planned.

This is a long-standing estate which has been in the hands of the Antonelli family since 1883 and certified organic since 2009. It stretches across rolling hills of vineyards and olive groves, with native grapes like Sagrantino, Sangiovese and Grechetto at its heart. They also offer truffle hunting in their private woodland, followed by tastings or even a full lunch or cooking experience. If you’re planning a visit, book ahead and make a day of it.

At Montioni they’ve been producing wine and olive oil in Montefalco since the 1970s. What began as a small olive mill has gradually grown into a full agricultural estate, with vineyards and a cellar alongside their extra virgin olive oils. Visits are structured but still warm and personal, and tastings are generous. You can also stay for a richer lunch if you’re in the mood to slow down and take it all in.

Paolo Bea is a historic estate just outside Montefalco, with roots in the area going back centuries. These days it’s one of the most distinctive producers around, making bold, natural Sagrantino that really tastes like the hills it comes from. It’s a great place to see a more uncompromising side of Montefalco wine, where everything is done with a huge amount of care and very little intervention. Visits are by appointment only.

A small family-run winery in the hills outside Orvieto, founded by two food and wine journalists who eventually made this their home after years of travel. The wines are certified organic, and they also produce a really lovely olive oil. In the warmer months, tastings are held outdoors among the olive trees and vines. Definitely book ahead if you’re planning a visit.

One of our favourite olive oil producers in Umbria, where everything is crafted with real dedication. Tastings here are a highlight: you’re guided through several oils, each with its own character, and given plenty of time to really taste and understand them. It feels welcoming and unpretentious, the kind of place where you come away with a new appreciation for just how good olive oil can be. And on top of that, they also produce excellent artisanal honey.

If you’re looking to stay somewhere that feels out of a fairytale, Murlo stretches across forests, valleys and olive groves in the Umbrian countryside. Villas are scattered through the landscape, so everything feels very private and quiet, with wide views and a real sense of stillness. This place makes you slow down without even noticing.

Reschio feels like its own world in northern Umbria, centred around a historic castle and restored farmhouses scattered across the countryside. Shaped over decades by the Bolza family, it feels deeply lived in rather than staged. There’s plenty to do if you want it, but it’s just as good for unwinding and disappearing for a while.