For over thirty years, my family and I have split our time between our two beloved homes: our apartment in Rome and our villa in the hills outside Todi, in Umbria.
While life in the city tends to be busy, with errands to run, restaurants to try, and almost always somewhere to be, in the countryside things slow down quite a bit and we end up spending most of our time at home. In the winter there’s a fire going, and in the summer the pool makes it very tempting not to leave. When it comes to eating, our large marble table under a shady, vine-covered pergola means having people over for lunch or dinner is a no-brainer. And since most of the ingredients come straight from our garden, the menu planning usually takes care of itself.
Still, every now and then it’s nice to head into town. Perched high above the valley of the Tiber River, Todi is one of those classic Umbrian hill towns that seems to float above the countryside. With its medieval streets and beautiful central piazza, it feels both elegant and wonderfully laid-back. And luckily, there are plenty of good places to eat and drink, from traditional trattorie to wine bars and relaxed little spots for coffee or aperitivo.
And while Todi isn’t as big or as well-known as Perugia, which we’ve already written about in a dedicated guide, we think this town deserves one of its own, since we spend so much time here and it holds a special place in our lives.
