In Italy, there are hundreds (maybe even thousands!) of different types of cheese. Parmigiano Reggiano, mozzarella, and burrata are among the most famous, but if you spend any time in Rome, you’ll quickly learn that pecorino is everywhere. The most classic Roman pastas feature pecorino romano, not parmigiano, and the hard, salty cheese sometimes appears in sandwiches, meat and cheese boards, and elsewhere.
But pecorino romano isn’t the only type of pecorino, so what exactly is pecorino anyway? And how can you choose the right pecorino? Read on to find out.
What exactly is pecorino, anyway?
Pecorino is simply sheep’s milk cheese. Pecora is the Italian word for sheep, so pecorino is any cheese made with 100% sheep’s milk. It’s not just one cheese, but an entire category of cheeses. There are regional variations, and they differ in taste depending on whether they’re fresh or aged. Pecorino tends to be saltier and sharper than cheese made with cow’s milk. It might have an earthy or grassy flavor, depending on where and how it was produced. Sheep’s milk has a higher fat and protein content than cow’s milk, so pecorino tends to be rich and tangy.
What are some regional variations?
Pecorino romano is intensely salty and tangy, which gives pastas like cacio e pepe, carbonara, gricia, and amatriciana their distinctive flavor. By law, pecorino romano DOP (i.e. with a protected designation of origin) must be aged at least five months, but most pecorino romano used in pasta is aged for 8-12 months.
Pecorino toscano is milder and less intense than its Roman cousin. It’s often served fresh or semi-stagionato (i.e. aged for a short amount of time). Fresh pecorino tends to be pale in color and quite mild, so it’s great for snacking or eating with fruit. When it’s aged, it becomes firmer, saltier and more intense, making it ideal for cheese boards. The town of Pienza in Tuscany’s Val d’Orcia is famous for the production of pecorino.
Pecorino sardo reflects the pastoral traditions of Sardinia, where shepherds living in the island’s rugged, mountainous interior have been raising sheep for hundreds of years. It’s less intensely salty than pecorino romano but a bit more assertive than pecorino toscano. It comes in two main DOP versions: dolce, which is aged for 20-60 days and has a mild, grassy flavor, and maturo, which is aged at least two months and becomes firmer, with a savory flavor. Sometimes you can also find a smoked version.
Where and when did pecorino originate?
The Romans were making versions of pecorino 2,000 years ago, so it’s one of the most ancient cheeses in the world. Pliny the Elder wrote about sheep’s milk cheeses that were produced and traded across the Roman Empire.
It makes a lot of sense if you think about it: sheep were easier to raise than cows on the rough, dry land of the Italian peninsula. Shepherds needed a way to preserve the nutrient-rich milk, and cheese has a much longer shelf life than milk. The result was dense in calories and nutrients, plus it was easy to transport, so it was given to Roman soldiers as part of their food rations.
How is pecorino made?
The basic method of producing pecorino has changed very little since the days of the Roman Empire. Essentially, fresh sheep’s milk is heated, rennet is added to curdle it, the curds are then cut, pressed into molds, and salted. At that point, the cheese is aged.
Nowadays, there are strict rules and regulations regarding hygiene, sourcing, the production process, and aging. If you see pecorino labeled DOP (Denominazione di Origine Protetta), that means it meets stringent criteria determined by the Italian government.
How long does pecorino last?
It depends on the type of pecorino. Fresh pecorino can keep in the fridge for one or two weeks, while semi-aged pecorino can last for two to three weeks. Aged pecorino, like pecorino romano, is quite shelf-stable, so if it’s vacuum sealed, you can keep it for months. Once it’s open, it tends to dry out, but will generally keep for a month or two.
Where to buy pecorino
Visiting Italy and want to bring some pecorino home? As long as it’s made with pasteurized milk, aged for more than three months, and vacuum sealed, you can bring it through U.S. Customs. Just remember to declare it. You’ll find chunks of pecorino romano sold in every supermarket and at some of our favorite markets in Rome. You can also buy it at these specialty stores:
Via Cipro, 8/E, 00136 Roma RM
+39 06 3972 0349
Via di S. Francesco a Ripa, 140A/B, 00153 Roma RM
+39 06 581 2815
Via Marmorata, 47, 00153 Roma RM
+39 375 513 0898
Marilyn Mason says
Thanks for your tutorial on Pecorino cheeses. I learned so much.
Elizabeth Minchilli says
Glad you liked it!
margaret says
you are our absolute favorite source for reminding us how much we love all things in Italy……..which we dearly miss.
Elizabeth Minchilli says
Thank you!!!