Mushroom and Pine Nut Pasta

by Leave a Comment

Mushrooms are one of our favorite ingredients as fall begins, and this simple pasta is a perfect way to make the most of them. Cardoncelli mushrooms, a specialty of Puglia, are particularly good here, paired with peppery arugula, toasted pine nuts and parmigiano.

The key is to cook the mushrooms over high heat without stirring too much, so they brown rather than steam. If you can’t find cardoncelli, any mushrooms will work, and you can swap the arugula for spinach, Swiss chard or parsley. Just don’t skip the toasted pine nuts. They really bring the dish together.

Mushroom and Pine Nut Pasta Recipe

Prep Time: 10 minutes
Cook Time: 15 minutes
Total Time: 25 minutes
Serves: 4

Ingredients

  • 1 1/2 pounds (700 g) mushrooms, sliced
  • 4 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
  • 2 cloves garlic, chopped
  • Salt and freshly ground black pepper
  • 1 bunch arugula, trimmed and roughly chopped
  • 1/4 cup pine nuts, toasted
  • 1/2 cup grated Parmigiano Reggiano
  • 1 pound (500 g) orecchiette

Instructions

  • Heat the olive oil in a large pan over high heat. Once hot, add the mushrooms and let them cook without stirring. This helps them brown rather than release their liquid. If needed, give the pan a shake to move them around.
  • Once the mushrooms are browned and tender, add the garlic and season with salt and pepper. Cook for another 5 minutes until the garlic is cooked through.
  • Turn off the heat, add the arugula and stir until just wilted.
  • Meanwhile bring a large pot of salted water to a boil and cook the orecchiette until al dente. Before draining, reserve about 1 cup of the pasta cooking water.
  • If the mushrooms have cooled, return them to the heat. Add the drained pasta and about 1/2 cup of the reserved pasta water, stirring everything together for another minute.
  • Turn off the heat and add the parmigiano, stirring well and adding a little more pasta water as needed to bring everything together.
  • Add the toasted pine nuts, give everything one final stir and serve immediately.

Spaghetti Aglio, Olio e Peperoncino

by Leave a Comment

There are few pasta dishes simpler than spaghetti aglio, olio e peperoncino. Garlic, olive oil, chili and pasta. That’s really all you need, which is why it’s the kind of dish Italians make when there’s seemingly nothing in the house for dinner, or after a very late night out.

It’s also perfect when you’re craving pasta in the middle of summer, when it’s over 90°F outside and even the thought of standing over the stove makes you melt. All you want is something you can throw together quickly that still completely hits the spot.

One little trick we love is adding a couple of anchovy fillets to the oil: they simply melt away adding an extra layer of savory depth. You’d never know they were there. We also like to use preserved red peppers when we have them. They have a brighter, fruitier flavor than dried chili, but either works perfectly well. And because there are so few ingredients, this is the time to use your best extra virgin olive oil, especially for that final drizzle before serving.

Spaghetti Aglio, Olio e Peperoncino Recipe

Prep Time: 5 minutes
Cook Time: 10 minutes
Total Time: 15 minutes
Serves: 4

Ingredients

  • 1 pound (500 g) good-quality spaghetti
  • 1/3-1/2 cup good-quality extra virgin olive oil
  • 4 cloves garlic, chopped
  • Peperoncino, to taste
  • Coarse salt, for the pasta water
  • 2-3 anchovy fillets (optional)
  • Small bunch fresh parsley, chopped (optional)

Instructions

  • Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil and add the spaghetti. Cook until al dente.
  • Meanwhile, pour the olive oil into a large pan and add the chopped garlic while the oil is still cold. Don’t skimp on the olive oil here since it essentially becomes the sauce.
  • Add the peperoncino and, if using, the anchovies. Turn the heat to medium and give everything a good stir. As the oil heats, the anchovies will melt into it, adding depth without overpowering the other flavors.
  • As soon as the garlic begins to sizzle, turn off the heat. You don’t want the garlic to brown. It will continue to gently infuse the oil while the pasta finishes cooking.
  • When the spaghetti is al dente, drain it and transfer it directly to the pan with the garlic and peperoncino. There’s no need to drain it too thoroughly, a little pasta water clinging to the spaghetti will help bring the sauce together.
  • Turn the heat back on and toss everything together. Add the parsley, if using, and give it one final stir.
  • Serve immediately with extra peperoncino if you like it extra hot. And no cheese! This is one pasta that doesn’t need it.

Panzanella

by Leave a Comment

Panzanella is one of those dishes I make on repeat every summer. It’s the perfect way to use up ripe tomatoes and stale bread, and somehow tastes even better after it’s had time to sit.

Years ago, an Umbrian chef introduced me to this version, which swaps the usual stale bread for crunchy friselle, the twice-baked bread rings you’ll find throughout southern Italy. They soak up all the tomato juices and olive oil while keeping their texture, creating a hearty, flavorful panzanella that’s perfect for making ahead. It’s quickly become one of my favorite takes on this classic summer dish, especially on those meltingly hot days when the last thing I want to do is turn on the stove.

Panzanella Recipe

Prep Time: 20 minutes
Cook Time: None
Total Time: 1 hour 20 minutes (including resting time)
Serves: 4-6

Ingredients

  • 4-5 whole wheat friselle (or about 300g /10 oz stale country bread)
  • 1 tbsp white wine vinegar (or red wine vinegar)
  • 1.5 kg (3 lb) ripe tomatoes, chopped
  • 1 cup cracked green olives, pitted
  • 2 celery hearts with their leaves, chopped
  • 1 tbsp dried oregano
  • 1 large Tropea red onion (or ½ regular red onion), thinly sliced
  • 1 large bunch fresh basil, torn, plus extra for serving
  • 180 ml (¾ cup) extra virgin olive oil, plus extra for serving
  • Salt
  • Freshly ground white or black pepper

Instructions

  1. In a large bowl, combine enough water to cover the friselle (or the bread) with the vinegar. Soak the friselle just until they begin to soften, then gently squeeze out any excess liquid and break them into bite-sized pieces. Transfer to a large serving bowl.
  2. Season the friselle with salt and pepper, then drizzle with about one-third of the olive oil.
  3. In a separate bowl, combine the tomatoes, celery, onion, basil, oregano, and another third of the olive oil. Season generously with salt and pepper, then toss well.
  4. Spoon the tomato mixture over the soaked friselle and scatter the olives on top. Drizzle with the remaining olive oil.
  5. Let the panzanella rest at room temperature for at least 1 hour, or refrigerate it overnight. This gives the friselle time to soak up all the flavorful tomato juices while still retaining a little bite.
  6. Just before serving, gently toss everything together. Taste and adjust the seasoning if needed, then finish with a final drizzle of extra virgin olive oil and a few fresh basil leaves.

Fave, Pecorino and Asparagus Pasta

by Leave a Comment

There are a few dishes in Rome that feel tied to a specific moment in the year, and fave e pecorino is one of them. Traditionally eaten on May 1st, and a staple on Roman tables all spring long, it’s about as simple as it gets: fresh fava beans, pecorino, and a long lunch in the countryside.

Here, that same combination turns into something a bit more substantial. The sweetness of the fava beans and the sharpness of the pecorino are paired with spring asparagus, for a pasta that feels both rooted in tradition and very much of the season. And if you’re after something a little richer, you could also add a bit of pancetta or guanciale, lightly crisped.

Fave, Pecorino and Asparagus Pasta Recipe

Prep Time: 30 minutes
Cook Time: 30 minutes
Total Time: 1 hour
Serves: 4-5

Ingredients

  • 2 kg / 4 lbs fava beans, in pods
  • 1 bunch thin asparagus
  • 1 large leek (about 1 cup chopped)
  • 4 tablespoons olive oil, plus more to finish
  • 1 clove garlic, finely chopped
  • ½ teaspoon black pepper
  • 1 teaspoon salt
  • 1 cup young pecorino, coarsely grated
  • 500 g / 1 lb pasta (busiate or another good-quality whole grain pasta)

Instructions

  1. Remove the fava beans from their pods. If they are very large and tough, peel off the outer skins, otherwise leave them as they are.
  2. Trim the woody ends from the asparagus and cut into 5 cm / 2 inch pieces.
  3. Finely chop the leek and garlic.
  4. Heat the olive oil in a large pan over medium heat. Add the leek, garlic, salt, and pepper, and cook until softened, about 10 minutes.
  5. Add the fava beans and ½ cup water. Cover and cook until tender, about 10 minutes, adding more water if needed. Turn off the heat.
  6. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil and cook the pasta.
  7. Just before the pasta is ready, add the asparagus to the fava beans and cook over medium heat until just tender, adding a little pasta cooking water if needed.
  8. When the pasta is about 1 minute from done, drain it, reserving 1 cup of the cooking water.
  9. Add the pasta to the pan with the vegetables, tossing and adding the reserved water a little at a time to help everything come together.
  10. Remove from the heat and stir in about three-quarters of the pecorino.
  11. Serve topped with the remaining cheese, a drizzle of olive oil, and freshly ground black pepper.

Our Italian Easter Menu

by Leave a Comment

Easter in Italy tends to follow a familiar rhythm. There’s almost always lamb at the center of the table, simply roasted and surrounded by the best of spring: artichokes, peas, asparagus. Antipasto might include cured meats, fresh fava beans and pecorino, and of course hard boiled eggs, a symbol of the holiday.

The first course is where there’s more room to improvise. One year it might be asparagus soup, another pasta al forno or risotto with whatever is in season. Dessert, on the other hand, is rarely up for debate, with classics like pastiera, colomba, and the inevitable chocolate eggs making their annual appearance.

Here, though, I’ve taken a slightly different approach. Each dish is rooted in tradition, but a little less obvious: a spring lasagna with artichokes, a Roman-style lamb inspired by the city’s Jewish cooking in place of the usual roast, a simple kale salad, and ciaramicola, a festive Easter cake from Perugia to finish. It’s quintessentially Italian without being predictable, and the kind of meal that makes the whole table feel just a little extra special.

Lasagna with Artichokes

Lasagna with Artichokes Recipe

Prep Time: 25 minutes
Cook Time: 45 minutes
Total Time: 1 hour 10 minutes
Serves: 10 as a main, 15–20 as a first course

Ingredients

  • 10 large artichokes
  • 1 onion, finely chopped
  • 1 tablespoon fresh thyme leaves
  • 1 tablespoon butter
  • 1 tablespoon olive oil
  • 1 cup white wine
  • 400 g / about 14 oz lasagna noodles (no-boil)
  • 1½ cups grated parmesan
  • ½ cup grated pecorino
  • Salt and black pepper

For the besciamella

  • 1 liter / 4 cups milk
  • 750 ml / 3 cups chicken broth
  • 100 g / 7 tablespoons butter
  • 100 g / 1 cup flour

Instructions

  1. Clean the artichokes by removing the tough outer leaves and inner choke. Cut into eighths and soak in lemon water until ready to use.
  2. In a large pan, cook the onion and thyme in butter and olive oil over low heat with a pinch of salt until soft. Add the drained artichokes, stir, and add ½ cup of water. Cover and cook for about 8 minutes.
  3. Uncover, stir, and add the wine. Let it cook off, then continue cooking until the artichokes are tender but still holding their shape. Add a bit more water if needed. Set aside.
  4. Warm the milk and broth together.
  5. To make the besciamella, melt the butter in a large pot. Add the flour and cook, stirring for a couple of minutes. Slowly add the warm milk and broth, whisking continuously until smooth. Cook over low heat until it reaches a loose, pourable consistency.
  6. Preheat the oven to 180°C / 350°F. Lightly oil or butter a large baking dish.
  7. Spread a thin layer of besciamella on the bottom. Add a layer of noodles, followed by more besciamella, half of the artichokes, some parmesan and pecorino, and seasoning.
  8. Repeat for a second layer. Finish with a final layer of noodles, cover generously with besciamella, and top with the remaining cheese.
  9. Bake for about 25 minutes, until bubbling and golden. Let rest at least 10 minutes before serving.


Lamb with Artichokes and Lemon Recipe

Prep Time: 20 minutes
Cook Time: 1 hour
Total Time: 1 hour 20 minutes
Serves: 6

Ingredients

  • ½ cup olive oil
  • 1.5 kg / 3½ pounds lamb, cut into pieces
  • 1 large onion, chopped
  •  ½ cup chopped parsley and/or mint
  • Salt and black pepper
  • 2 tablespoons flour
  • 1 cup white wine
  • ½ cup freshly squeezed lemon juice
  • 6–8 small artichokes, trimmed and sliced
  • 3 egg yolks
  • Fresh mint

Instructions

  1. Heat the olive oil in a large pan. Season the lamb with salt and pepper and brown it over high heat.
  2. Add the onion and cook until softened.
  3. Sprinkle in the flour, stir, then add the wine and let it simmer for about 5 minutes.
  4. Lower the heat, cover, and cook for about 30 minutes.
  5. Add the prepared artichokes and continue cooking, covered, for another 20 minutes, until tender. Add a splash of water if needed.
  6. In a small bowl, whisk together the egg yolks and lemon juice.
  7. Turn off the heat, stir in the egg mixture, and cover. Let sit for a few minutes to thicken slightly.
  8. Finish with fresh mint and serve.


Cavolo Nero (Tuscan Kale) Salad Recipe

Prep Time: 15 minutes
Serves: 10

Ingredients

  • 8 cups cavolo nero (Tuscan kale), washed and chopped
  • ¾ cup chopped spring onions
  • ½ cup chopped pistachios
  • 3 blood oranges, peeled and roughly chopped
  • Edible flowers (optional)
  • Salt and black pepper

For the dressing

  • ⅓ cup olive oil
  • ⅓ cup balsamic vinegar
  • 4 tablespoons white wine vinegar

Instructions

  1. Place the kale in a large bowl.
  2. Add the spring onions, oranges, and pistachios.
  3. If using, scatter the edible flowers on top just before serving.
  4. Whisk together the dressing ingredients and season with salt and pepper.
  5. Pour over the salad and toss well.

Ciaramicola

Ciaramicola (Umbrian Easter Cake) Recipe

Prep Time: 20 minutes
Cook Time: 50–55 minutes
Total Time: 1 hour 15 minutes
Serves: 8

Ingredients

  • 2 eggs
  • 150 g / ¾ cup sugar
  • 60 g / 4 tablespoons butter, melted
  • 60 ml / 4 tablespoons lemon juice
  • Zest of 1 lemon
  • 250 g / 1¾ cups all-purpose flour
  • 16 g / 1 tablespoon baking powder
  • Red food coloring (optional)

For the meringue

  • 2 egg whites
  • 150 g / ¾ cup sugar
  • Sprinkles

Instructions

  1. Preheat the oven to 160°C / 320°F. Butter and flour a bundt or tube pan.
  2. Beat the eggs until fluffy, then add the sugar and mix well.
  3. Add the melted butter, lemon juice, and zest.
  4. Stir in the flour and baking powder until smooth. Add a few drops of red food coloring if using.
  5. Pour the batter into the prepared pan and bake for about 30 minutes.
  6. Meanwhile, make the meringue. Beat the egg whites until foamy, then slowly add the sugar and continue beating until stiff peaks form.
  7. Remove the cake from the oven and lower the temperature to 100°C / 200°F.
  8. Turn the cake out onto a baking sheet while still warm.
  9. Spread the meringue over the top and decorate with sprinkles.
  10. Return to the oven and bake for 20–25 minutes, until the meringue is set but still pale.
  11. Let cool completely before serving.

Lentil and Pancetta Soup

by 3 Comments

One of the things I love most about lentils is how easy they are. No soaking, no planning ahead, and dinner is still on the table in under an hour. They’re a pantry staple I always have around, and one that never lets me down.

This soup came together one night without much of a plan, the way most of my favorite meals do. I blended the pancetta and celery into a fine paste for the base, which gives the broth instant depth, and finished each bowl with a few simple extras that made all the difference.

Rich, comforting, and somehow much more than the sum of its parts, it’s the kind of soup that makes you stop talking once you start eating, and proof that lentils don’t need much to shine.

Lentil and Pancetta Soup Recipe

Prep Time: 10 minutes
Cook Time: 45 minutes
Total Time: 55 minutes
Serves: 6

Ingredients

  • 4 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
  • 1 medium onion, finely chopped
  • ½ teaspoon fine sea salt
  • 150 g / 5½ oz pancetta, cut into cubes
  • 2 celery stalks, cut into 3 or 4 pieces
  • 1 carrot, finely chopped
  • 4-6 sage leaves
  • 1½ cups dried lentils
  • 6 cups water

To finish

  • Whole milk plain yogurt
  • Extra virgin olive oil (olio nuovo or something very fruity)
  • Traditional balsamic vinegar
  • Freshly ground black pepper

Instructions

  1. Heat the olive oil in a 2-quart pot over medium heat. Add the onion and salt and cook until the onion is soft and just starting to turn golden, about 10 minutes.
  2. Meanwhile, put the pancetta and celery in a food processor and blend until you have a fine paste. Add it to the onions and cook for 5 minutes, stirring occasionally.
  3. Stir in the carrot and sage leaves and cook for another 5 minutes.
  4. Add the lentils and water, bring to a gentle simmer, then cover and cook for about 40 minutes, until the lentils are tender.
  5. Start tasting after 30 minutes. Lentils vary and may take up to 50 minutes. You’re looking for tender, neither firm nor mushy.
  6. Taste for seasoning, keeping in mind you’ll be finishing the soup in the bowl.
  7. Ladle the soup into bowls and finish each with a spoonful of yogurt, a drizzle of balsamic, and olive oil. Add black pepper and serve with crusty bread.

Radicchio and Pear Salad

by 2 Comments

During the quieter months of January and February, when I’m home more and keeping lunches simple, this radicchio and pear salad ends up on my table again and again. Most days I eat alone, after a walk or a trip to the market, and I love the small ritual of making exactly what I’m in the mood for. Often that means something fresh, easy to make and enjoyed without distractions.

Fennel and orange is on constant repeat, but when I’m craving something leafier and slightly bitter, I turn to radicchio. Paired with sweet, juicy pear and a few pantry extras, it becomes one of those meals that feels light but still a little indulgent. Barely a recipe, really, but one I make often enough that it’s worth sharing.

Radicchio and Pear Salad Recipe

Prep Time: 10 minutes
Serves: 1 (or 2 as a starter)

Ingredients

  • 1 small head Radicchio di Treviso (sweeter and more tender than Radicchio di Chioggia)
  • 1 pear, peeled and cut into chunks
  • ½ cup grated ricotta salata
  • 4 dates, pitted and chopped
  • 1-2 tablespoons hazelnuts or walnuts, chopped
  • Aceto Balsamico di Modena (balsamic vinegar)
  • Honey vinegar
  • Extra virgin olive oil
  • Salt and pepper

Instructions

  1. Cut the radicchio into ribbons and soak in cold water for 5 to 10 minutes to soften the bitterness. Drain well and spin dry.
  2. Transfer the radicchio to a salad bowl and add the pear, dates, nuts and ricotta salata.
  3. Dress with balsmic vinegar, honey vinegar, olive oil, salt and pepper. Toss gently and adjust seasoning to taste.

Pumpkin Flan

by Leave a Comment

I love flans (sformati in Italian) because they look elegant, taste delicious and are light enough to start a meal without filling everyone up. This one feels very northern Italian, with plenty of Parmigiano and just a touch of nutmeg. The Taleggio sauce is rich, creamy, and truly indulgent.

If you’re unsure about the sweetness of the amaretti cookies crumbled on top, you can skip them or try chopped walnuts instead, but they really do add a lovely crunch and a touch of that northern flavor.

And since it’s that time of year, this dish also makes a festive and refined way to begin any Thanksgiving meal.

Pumpkin Flan Recipe

Prep Time: 20 minutes
Cook Time: 40 minutes
Total Time: 60 minutes
Serves: 4

Ingredients

  • 500 g / 1 lb butternut squash
  • 100 g Parmigiano Reggiano, grated
  • 4 eggs
  • 1 tbsp heavy cream
  • Freshly grated nutmeg
  • Olive oil
  • Salt and pepper
  • Butter
  • Flour
  • Amaretti cookies
  • 250 g Taleggio
  • 1 cup heavy cream
  • Pinch of salt

Instructions

Flan

  1. Preheat the oven to 200°C / 400°F.
  2. Peel the butternut squash and cut four thin slices from the neck end. Cut the rest into chunks. You’ll need about 500 g / 1 lb total.
  3. Toss the squash with olive oil, season with salt and pepper, and spread on a parchment-lined tray. Do the same with the thin slices, keeping them intact.
  4. Bake until tender: the chunks should take about 20 minutes, the thin slices around 8. Remove the slices earlier so they don’t overcook.
  5. Lower the oven to 180°C / 350°F.
  6. Let the squash cool, then transfer to a food processor with the eggs, Parmigiano, cream, and a little nutmeg. Blend until smooth.
  7. Butter and flour four small ramekins, then fill with the pumpkin mixture. Bake for about 45 minutes, or until set.

Cheese sauce

Make this just before serving.

  1. Cut the Taleggio into cubes and remove the rind.
  2. Warm the cream in a small pan (don’t let it boil), then add the cheese and stir until melted.
  3. Let it cook gently until slightly thickened. Taste and add a pinch of salt if needed.

To serve

  1. Run a knife around the edge of each flan and gently remove from the ramekins.
  2. Place one of the roasted squash rounds on a small plate, then set the flan on top.
  3. Spoon over the warm cheese sauce and crumble an amaretti cookie on top.
  4. Garnish with another cookie if you like.

Strawberry and Ricotta Cake

by 4 Comments

I’m not usually a very fancy baker. When it comes to desserts, I definitely lean rustic. A jam-filled crostata is my go-to, especially when I’m having friends over in Umbria. But when I wrote The Italian Table I realized I’d need a few sweets that pushed me out of my comfort zone.

One of my favorites from that book is the fruit-topped cake I discovered at Masseria Potenti in Puglia, which I couldn’t get enough of while I was there. Their version was piled with figs, and I truly think it’s the kind of cake you can eat all day long. At Masseria Potenti they even serve it for breakfast (because in Italy, cake in the morning is totally normal). I personally love it in the afternoon with an espresso, or after dinner with whipped cream or gelato.

The original recipe calls for just a touch of milk in the batter, but I’ve also come to love Ina Garten’s richer take, made with a full cup of ricotta. Since I happened to have ricotta in the fridge this week, that’s the one I went with. And while hers uses figs, I swapped in strawberries. Honestly? I think I might like this version even better.

You can also use almost any soft, juicy fruit: plums, peaches, even kiwis. Get creative and let me know how it turns out.

Strawberry and Ricotta Cake Recipe

Prep time: 20 minutes
Cook time: 40 minutes
Total time: 60 minutes
Serves: 8

Ingredients

  • 1 ¼ sticks (140 g) unsalted butter, at room temperature
  • 1 cup sugar
  • 3 large eggs
  • 1 cup fresh whole-milk ricotta
  • 2 tablespoons whole-fat plain yogurt
  • 1 teaspoon vanilla extract
  • grated lemon zest (from one lemon)
  • 1¼ cups all-purpose flour
  • 1 tablespoon baking powder
  • 1 teaspoon salt
  • 12-14 large strawberries, stems removed and cut in half
  • 2 tablespoons light brown granulated sugar

Instructions

  1. Preheat the oven to 350°F / 180°C.
  2. Butter and flour a 9-inch springform pan.
  3. Using a stand mixer (optional, but it makes things easier), cream the butter and sugar until light and fluffy. Add the eggs, one at a time, beating each one in.
  4. Next, add and stir in the ricotta, yogurt, vanilla, and lemon zest.
  5. In a separate bowl, mix together the flour, baking powder, and salt. Gently fold into the wet mixture. Don’t overmix.
  6. Pour the batter into the prepared pan and level it out with a spoon. Place the strawberries on top, cut side up, pressing them in slightly. Sprinkle the cake with the brown sugar.
  7. Bake for 40 minutes.
  8. Let cool, remove from the pan, and serve with whipped cream or crème fraîche.

This recipe is adapted from one by Ina Garten.

If you don’t have any ricotta, there is a similar recipe in my book The Italian Table, which uses milk instead.