I can still remember the first time I made pesto at home. I had no idea what I was doing and only knew that basil was the main ingredient. I turned to Evan Kleiman’s Pasta Fresca and found a perfect, easy, pesto recipe. This was back in 1988, long before the internet, and her recipe was the one I turned to for years and years. I always checked her quantities and did it exactly as she advised.
This was before Evan and I became great friends (and long before we started leading tours together . Back then, I was just another cook with a stained and well-loved copy of Pasta Fresca. Years later, when I told Evan her pesto recipe had been my go-to for so long, she laughed and said, “I don’t even remember there was a pesto recipe in there!” And then she added, “You know, you can pretty much make pesto out of anything—you don’t really need a recipe.”
She’s right. Pesto is a state of mind. If you can think it, you can pesto it. While basil is a classic, I’ve since made versions using sage, parsley and mint, and even celery leaves. I’ve thrown in lemon zest, capers, and even olives for an extra punch. The possibilities are endless.
Here are a few pesto tips I’ve picked up over the years:
Nuts: People often get hung up on using pine nuts. But I haven’t used them in over 15 years—first, because they’re expensive, and second, because I never have them in my pantry. Instead, I use almonds. Once they’re blended into the pesto, you’d be hard-pressed to tell the difference.
Cheese: While classic pesto calls for parmigiano, don’t worry if you don’t have it. I’ve used everything from pecorino to hard goat cheese, depending on what’s on hand. And while the classic method has you adding grated cheese into the pesto, I sometimes instead stir in a soft cheese—like ricotta or fresh goat cheese—right before tossing it with the pasta.
Storing pesto: If you’re using basil, pesto can turn dark quickly due to oxidation. To prevent this, cover it tightly with plastic wrap, making sure the wrap touches the surface, or pour a thin layer of olive oil over it. Other types of pesto (like this arugula version) don’t oxidize as easily, so you don’t have to be as careful.
Freezing pesto: Freezing pesto is a fantastic way to preserve it. Just don’t add the cheese before freezing—you can stir it in after it’s thawed. I usually freeze pesto in one-cup portions (knowing I will later add about ¾ to 1 cup of cheese to it), which is perfect for 4-5 servings of pasta. Alternatively, you can freeze pesto in ice cube trays, then pop the cubes into freezer bags for later.
Eating pesto: The obvious use for pesto is atop pasta. But I like to go the Ligurian route and add some sort of vegetables to the water while the pasta is boiling. Green beans are a classic, but lately, I’ve been adding fresh fava beans. Pesto is also fantastic drizzled on vegetable soups, or spread on crostini for an easy appetizer.
Now, for the latest chapter in my pesto adventures: The other day, I arrived at our home in Umbria to discover that the arugula patch had grown into an enchanted forest! With the plants starting to go to seed, I decided to harvest the leaves and make enough arugula pesto to feed an army. I packed it into one-cup portions and tucked them into the freezer, where they’ll last for at least a year.
Here’s the recipe—and feel free to get creative with your own version!
Arugula Pesto Recipe
Ingredients:
- 2-3 cups packed arugula leaves
- 1/3 cup of almonds
- 1-2 cloves garlic, peeled
- 1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil
- 1/4 tsp salt
- Freshly ground black pepper
Instructions:
- Place the arugula, almonds, garlic, and salt into a food processor. Blend until everything is finely chopped, scraping down the sides if needed.
- With the motor running, slowly pour in the olive oil. Blend until the mixture is smooth, again scraping the sides if necessary.
- If you’re eating the pesto right away, add in the cheese by mixing briefly.
- To store: do not add the cheese. Transfer the pesto to a jar, top with olive oil, and refrigerate for up to a week. For longer storage, freeze it in small containers or freezer bags (just remember to add the cheese after thawing).
Enjoy!
