I arrived two days early for my week long tour in Sicily. It was partly to have a fun weekend with Domenico and partly to research new things for our tour ( restaurants, adventures, etc). Just in case you are thinking of spending a weekend in Ortigia (and you definitely should) I thought you would enjoy a short weekend guide:
Ortigia: This is the historical center of Siracusa, and is an island connected to the mainland by two small bridges. It is one of the most charming seaside towns in Sicily.
Getting There: Catania is the closest airport to Ortigia and is where you fly into. You can either take a car and driver for the one hour drive (I use this service or you can just grab a taxi). There are also buses, which gets you to Siracusa but then you have to get a taxi into Ortigia.
Hotels: I love the family run 3 Star Gutkowski. It’s very simple, but very sweet. If you are looking for more luxury, then my pick is the Agila’.
Friday
Friday Aperitivo: There is no better way to ease into life in Ortigia than an apertivo in one of the grandest piazzas in Italy: The Piazza del Duomo. The classic bar Condorelli faces the duomo and definitely has the most dramatic view. For a more low key setting Caffe Minerva, located on end of the piazza towards the side of the Duomo is my choice.
Friday Dinner: Macallè serves some of the best food in town. The focus is fish, but there are other options. Everything is based on rigorously local seasonal ingredients. Don’t miss the panna cotta for dessert which is often made with local lemons.
Saturday
Saturday Morning: Take a walk around the center and visit the Duomo, the ancient Mikveh (write allagiudecca@hotmail.com to arrange a visit) and the Galleria Regionale Palazzo Bellomo, a sweet museum with a few really great paintings.
Saturday Lunch: Grab lunch in the market at one of these three places: Fratelli Burgio (Antipasto boards to die for); Bordieri (they make famous panini to go or to take away) or , my personal favorite Central Bar L’Antico Mercato on Via Raffaele Lanza. It’s barely a restaurant and the only cooking they do is on a coal fired grill where they slap on whole squid or swordfish steaks. (here is a video I made of the lunch I had there last year)
Saturday Afternoon: After a nap or a swim, head to the Museo dei Pupi to see a puppet show preformed with 17th century marionettes (at 5pm daily).
Saturday Aperitivo: Cortile Verga (Romantic courtyard with killer cocktails or Enoteca Solaria (best natural wines in town)
Saturday Dinner: Chiodo was a recent discovery and I love it’s laid back vibe. Great atmosphere, wonderful food and one of they best playlists playing in the background.
Sunday
Sunday Breakfast: Stop by Artale for a typical Sicilian breakfast of granita and brioche . While there pick up something for your picnic. (arancini)
Morning Activity: Take a walk to the new part of town to Piazza Santa Lucia Visit the church of Santa Lucia and then wander around the Sunday market (both a flea market and food market. Get some fruit for your picnic)
Go for a hike: Pista Cicabile Rossana Maiorca. This bike path is one of my favorite hikes and runs atop the cliffs opposite Ortigia. Make sure you bring along water since it’s 100% nature and there is no place to buy anything.
Go back to Ortigia, pick up your luggage and go to the airport
Here are more of my favorites in Ortigia in case you are there for longer than just a weekend.
